Lockdown in Gascony
Here in France, like so many other places in the world, as of noon on Tuesday, the 17th, we are on lockdown/quarantine/shelter-in-place for at least 15 days, needing an Attestation De Déplacement Dérogatoire (a form) stating who we are, where we live, and our purpose for being out. Luckily for me, my friend Luke decided to come here last week from Switzerland rather than going back to his home in Italy,, which was already experiencing a mass quarantine, and he decided to stick it out here in France rather than retiring to Torino, so I have someone to talk to other than the dog.
I have to admit, I was taking the imposed isolation fairly casually until I saw this graphic. I had even planned a lunch for 8 on my terrace for Sunday- all people I had been with over the past few days, my small Nérac posse. But, then, suddenly, I realised that these matches represented those same people, and that there was something I could do to protect them and myself. I’m a little slow on the uptake sometimes.
And, then I had a conversation with my son, Ben, who, aware that I am part of the endangered age group, encouraged me to take this seriously. So, we have settled into a nice little routine here- two walks a day with the dog for, me; errands run by Luke to the market, the pharmacy, the boulangerie; check ins with friends by text or messenger to see how they are doing; knitting (for me- haven’t convinced Luke that this would be a good use of his time…yet) or computer work; an apéro on the terrace at about 6;00; and dinner in front of the fireplace at about 8:00. Somehow, the days are zipping by, and, though we’ve spent a fair amount of time watching CNN International news, we haven’t had to break into Prime Video or Netflix for entertainment. That time will come, though.
There couldn’t be a better person for me to be on lockdown with, gastronomically speaking. Luke is a vegetarian, but his taste in foods are very similar to mine- pasta, beans, eggs are all staples of my everyday diet, and they fit well into his, too. So far, we’ve had a leek quiche, asian noodle with fried tofu, Pasta alla Norma (eggplant, tomatoes, chili flakes, olives, capers), bread, cheese, bread, cheese and more bread and cheese. And, on Friday, before the total lockdown, we scored rosé, two cases for the price of one, at our local winery. Oh, and I have a little present from my friend, Bill- a piece of his lovely foie gras- to eat all by myself, since it’s not something that my new roommate would consider let pass through his lips. Poor me.
On Friday, my French teacher, Francoise, took us through a lesson on what to expect if we made a call to 15, the emergency number for medical issues, if we had symptoms of the coronavirus. (Here in France you dial a different set of numbers depending on what your emergency is: 15 for a medical emergency, 17 for police, 18 for fire, 19 for child abuse, 114 for emergency calls for users with disabilities, and 112 is a general EU emergency number.). I’m now equipped with a page of questions that would be asked, and the appropriate answers that might be needed, in French.
Francoise has also called each evening to be certain that I understood the conditions of the quarantine, to see if I was doing ok. Her take on the need for the enforced quarantine is that the French are not very obedient, but this was true in Italy and I think it will be an issue in the US, too.
So far, most everyone seems to be observing the quarantine and our streets are fairly empty, with a few exceptions. There was no evidence of the gendarmes policing the streets here in Nerac until today when they started checking cars coming and going from town. They’ve started checking people at the supermarket, too,, limiting the umber of people on the store and enforcing the “1 meter distancing’. I did see two women the other night, who I know frequent the terrace of our local, Le Taverne d’Henri, each evening for a café or verre de vin, sitting next to each other on a park bench, talking. Some things are hard to give up.
Our food stores, bakeries and butchers are still open, as are pharmacies, Tabacs, farm supplies and gas stations. The local outdoor market in Lavardac, our neighbouring town, was held yesterday, but the Nérac mayor has just announced that, with escalating numbers of cases in our department, they will not hold the Saturday market here starting this week. Hopefully, there will be some accommodation for the vendors to distribute their products. Cheeses that are just ripe for eating now will not hold all that long. The many varieties of strawberries available here, our beautiful white asparagus, and so many other Spring products, will be ready to consume but need a distribution plan.
This digital age is certainly making social distancing easier. On Friday evening we have a FaceTime apéro scheduled with friends who live down the street, and this weekend I’m going to do a video cooking class with my granddaughters in California. It’s easy to talk to family in the US, too, since they are either working from home or not working at all.
That’s going to be the hard part for many. No income, and no real idea of when this will end. Our lockdown is for just 15 days, but it was originally rumoured to be for 45, so I think we can all assume that there will be extensions. I’ve cancelled plans to visit friends in Ireland next month, as well as a trip to meet my son, Zach, and niece, Vicki, in Berlin. I’m hoping my trip to California in June, for granddaughter graduations, isn’t going to be canceled, but it may be.
So, Luke and I are hanging in Nérac, watching Spring unfold on the the terrace, walking Elsie a couple of times a day, hoping our family and friends are able to stay safe through this tragic worldwide event. I feel very lucky to have companionship during this lockdown, and it helps that the company is a very good friend. It won’t be as difficult for us as for those who are older and don’t have the ability to easily get out for necessities, or those who have lost their jobs, or are trying to work from home while children look for attention. I realise, all things considered, my life is quite good.
*** I’ve been asked to provide the list of possible questions and answers, in French, should someone have symptoms and need to call the emergency line. Please know, I am taking this from scribbled notes, and there may be some mistakes, but it’s the best I can do!
1) Call 15, the emergency number in France for health related emergencies.
2) When the answer, tell them of your symptoms: They will ask you Quelle sont nous symptômes? What are your symptoms.
Je une toux sèche. I have a dry cough.
Je mal á la tête. I have a headache.
J’ai de la fièver. I have a fever.
J’ai du mal à respiré. I’m having trouble breathing.
J’ai beaucoup du mal á respiré. I’m having a lot of trouble breathing.
Je ne plus respiré. I can’t breathe.
Ma tempèrature est _____. My temperature is …. Tell them in centigrade. 37 is considered normal.
Est-que-ce treatment pour d’autre pathologie? Are you being treated for other diseases? (Are you a person at risk? Hypertension, diabetes, lung disease, etc.).
Avez-vous se journée dans une zone à risque? Have you traveled to a country with an outbreak of coronavirus?
On va venir vous cherche. We will come for you (they will send an ambulance).
Préparez vous affaires. Get ready (to go with the ambulance).
10 thoughts on “Lockdown in Gascony”
Such a lovely overview of a strange new quarantine Moe
Am really happy that you have Luke there for company- as well as Elsie
Our nephew Matt did something similar as your son Ben – making us (esp his Uncle David) to take this isolation seriously – and we are. No required forms yet here in the USA
Love and miss you
Pat
Thanks, Pat. I’m glad Matt was there for you!
Again, so beautifully written and perfectly captures what it is like to live in France right now. Let’s schedule a
Facetime apero with you and Luke some day soon !
Oh, yes, let’s do that!
Love seeing you writing again. So glad Luke is home with you in Nerac, makes me feel better about not being able to make my trip. Love you!
I do wish you were here, though. In the Fall.
If I had to be stuck somewhere in France…you are my choice. Spending this time with you is a gift, and we are getting through this together. Thank you for housing the homeless Italian and if you don’t stop cooking, I’m going to be oversized luggage when I return to Italy. No..please don’t stop cooking.
Ah, as long as you’ll eat, I’ll cook.
as always, I love your stories. You are in a beautiful location to be in a “lock down” hugs back to you!
Lynn & Burr
Hi Maureen. Apparently you were kind enough to invite my son’s family for a visit while they were on a year-long worldwide journey. They left from San Diego last September and traveled slowly all through Japan, Korea, SE Asia, India, North Australia and Tanzania but unfortunately were forced home after time in Turkey and Greece, unable to remain or go elsewhere. Anyway, thank you for your gracious offer. They were saddened to end their travels but relieved to get home safely and hope to carry on at another time. Meanwhile, everyone is well. I’m enjoying your reports from France, having just discovered this site. so please continue. Be well, keep cooking, sipping and enjoying your beautiful French surroundings.
With warm regards, Joan